The music of Silence

the most beautiful sound on earth... absolute silence and yet, you hear music
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Monday, June 1, 2026

Peru day 4- Day 1 of Inca hike

 Machu Picchu (MP)


We made it ! MP from circuit 1 

View of MP from Sun Gate

Machu Picchu is my bucket list for my 50th birthday which is what really triggered this Peru trip. 
I also wanted to do some kind of hike to get there instead of just the tourist stop. But Bill talked me out of the 4 day Inca hike (which I'm glad!) and instead we did the 2 Day Inca Hike. It's really one day of hiking for about 6 hours to get to the Sun Gate and Circuit 1. Then a 2nd day of walking around the ruins. 
Circuit 1 is literally the lawn that we are standing on. The hiking permit allows us to access Circuit 1 before 5pm that day. So Edy explained at the beginning of the hike that we have a time constraint to get there. 

View of MP from circuit 1 with the SDYC flag

As mentioned in earlier blog, unless you are staying at Ollantaytambo, be prepared for a 3am pick up as the train is leaves at 630am and check in starts 30 mins before. 
Edy (our guide) called us and told us to be ready at 310am from Cusco Hotel pick up. There are 19 of us in the hike with 2 tour guides (Edy and Miguel) 
After the hike all of us knew each other pretty well and we talked and realized that Edy told everyone 310am 😂  but Bill/I are the first ones as our hotel is so close to the office. So we got the real 310am pick up =)  

It took us 2 hours to get to Ollantaytambo to get on the train at 610am to get to KM 108. 
This is the cheaper train carriage even though it's the same train as Vistadom but in a different carriage. I realized the carriage isn't as nicely decorated and we don't get snacks and fashion show as the Vistadom. 

Getting on the train at Ollantaytambo

The 1.5 hours train ride to KM 108 is really scenic and you see Urumbumba river cutting through mountains and ravines. 

The scenic train ride with the sunrise

We are practically shoved off the train onto the dirt at KM 108 =) as  it has no platform! Also, Edy is in another cheaper carriage so he told the train conductor to tell us to get off at the right place since we are not going to Agua Caliente. 

Off the train onto the dirt! And somebody was practically shoved away from the moving train!

We crossed a bridge to get validated for our hiking passes and we are officially on the trail. 
KM 108 bridge
Getting our passes validated at the trail head

Note that Inca trails only issues 500 passes a day with 200 for visitors, 300 for guides and porters. That's why it's needed to do 3 to 6 months to secure your passes. 
We did TreX company and they are one of the 2 companies who also do the 4 day Inca Trail (the other one is Alpaca). They are both good and they have the infrastructure at the camp sites to do a more luxurious breakfast and lunches with porters etc.After check in, we had breakfast at base camp around 8am. 

And as far as we can tell, the porters and cooks are treated well and in a sustainable way. During the hike Edy was careful to ensure the group let porters have the right of way and he made a point of introducing them and us tipping directly to them. 

Just note that bathrooms are not pleasant in the trails as it's not controlled by the company but the government so plan accordingly! Do what you need to do in the trains before the hikes! 
 
Introductions to everyone and breakfast before the hike

We started the 600 meters hike up at 830am after breakfast and it took us about 3 hours with frequent stops. Edy kept everyone together as a group in this part of the hike as it's a climb up and to ensure the group is ok.

He also explained that the hike is warm as we are now crossing into the Amazon climate. The Sacred Valley is Andean climate and the KM 108 is the interface between the 2 climate and we are going into cloud forest. So we literally took off 3 layers of clothing from freezing weather in Ollantaytambo to finish the hike to MP! 

At the start of the trail

We reach the first checkpoint where we join the trail for the 4 days hikers and had lunch. It's a tough hike due to the altitude. But we made it! 
To put things in perspective, the cooks made breakfast, cleaned up, then they hiked up the mountains with the equipment (tents and cooking equipment and food) in less time than we did, to make food for us when we get there! And Edy made it a point for us to tip them after lunch as we parted ways with them after lunch. This is why the tours are pricier but we have a full meal instead of a box sandwich compared to other tours. 

Mid point camp site

Luxurious lunch with 6 courses at the mid point 

Meeting the cooks and heroes behind the lunch and Bill napping after lunch!

After lunch we went to visit Winay Wayna in the rainbow valley which is a short 10 mins walk from lunch site. This is a ruin that can only be accessed by hiking trails 

Behind Gate 1: Rainbow valley and Winay Wayna

Beautiful terraces and mountain

It's a beautiful Inca site that's never discovered by the Spanish and translates to "Forever Young" after an abundant local orchid. And they can see a temple with 7 openings hence the rainbow valley as U can see rainbows there easily. 

The temple with 7 openings to represent the rainbow colors 

After that we keep hiking past the portal entrance to MP. Machu Pichuu translates to Old Mountain and it's really not the name of the ruins but the mountain. At this point of the hike, we are hiking around the mountain to get to the famous ruins that nobody really know what it's called =) 

Behind Gate 2! MP entrance

The hike at this point is relatively flat with some small ups/downs and we can really enjoy the flowers. So Edy told us that he will let us go in our own cluster but to wait for us at the "Gringo killer" or "Monkey steps". 
The different flowers along the hike

At the end of the trail there are very high rocks that we have to use both hands and knees to climb, hence "monkey steps". At this point we are about 15 mins from the Sun Gate. 
 
At the monkey steps! 

We waited for him after the monkey steps and the group approached the Sun Gate together and we can see MP at that point. As you can see in the picture, MP ruins sits lower than the surrounding mountains. We were lucky that the clouds did not obscure MP. As the ruins are meant to be a vanishing city, it's not unusual that crossing the Sun Gate did not yield a view of the ruins! Also, it's only with the Inca hike that you can see this view of MP from Sun Gate. 

The Sun Gate

We made it to Sungate! 

It still took us another hour to get to circuit 1. Our permit only allow us to use that circuit 1 that day before 5pm which is really the chase to get there. 

Hiking towards circuit 1

On the way we saw the Pachamama rock where he explained it's a cemetery.  The Inca usually mummified their dead but they found a lot of dead bodies that's not correctly buried at this Pachamama rock area. The suspicion is when the Spanish invaded, they brought diseases to Cusco that the guides brought to MP. They were worried about touching the diseased dead bodies and abandoned them there. Then they also abandoned MP so that the Spanish won't find this sacred city and hence MP was never destroyed/round by the Spanish. 
The rock of Pachamama

We continued and reached circuit 1 

Approaching circuit 1
Edy told us to roam around and take as many pictures as we want! Again, if you don't hike, you won't see the ruins from this view. 
The ultimate MP view! 

The full view of the ruins with the mountains from Circuit 1 

Beautiful View of the ruins from circuit 1

The alpacas on circuit 1

After we roamed around for 30 mins on circuit 1, we made our way to the bus station which is another 30 mins descent. 
Bus ticket and our hotel in Agua Caliente

The bus took us to Agua caliente where we found our hotel for the night. Then we met for dinner before calling it a night! We were so tired that I didn't take pictures of the food! Dinner and hotel is included as part of the package. 

With the first day hike, I was impressed with the organization and Edy with his experience guiding the group through a tough hike. The food is great and the group really bonded in this hike. 

Peru day 3 - Sacred Valley

 Sacred Valley 


The concentric rings of Moray

I learned today that sacred valley is not a place but a region. =) 
The Urubamba River fed into this valley and it's a fertile area for agriculture, spiritual areas of the Inca Empire. 

The practical aspect of going there is you need one more day to acclimate to the altitude. The sacred valley is around 2000 to 3000 meters so it's recommended that you take a day trip to help before doing MP hiking. 

Conveniently Cusco has a tourist attraction sites call BTC Pass and it's slightly confusing. You can do the full one but realistically we never needed more than 4 for sacred valley and 1 for Saksaywaman due to lack of time. The Cathedral and salt mines are separate. But this is why some of the tours put optional entrance fees for sites. They usually just go to the first site and confirmed who needs tickets. 

Sacred Valley tours typically include 4 different Inca sites in different order and they usually throw the salt mines in there too. The 4 sites are Chinchero, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo, and Pisac. 

Our first stop is Chinchero. This is the coldest out of all the places we went. 
We visited the Andinas women community. They showed us the parasites on the cactus that was used to color the alpaca wool naturally. And how they washed the wool with a natural substance. 
But I didn't feel comfortable buying alpaca from them as they felt very pushy. 

Andean Women community

Washing the wool with natural soap


Coloring using the cactus parasites and changing colors with it

After that we walked to the historic site. It has colonial style mixed with Inca ruins. The ruins are niches that's been cleared out by the Spanish when they are conquered. This is the place that we can see an airport area is being built. But we truly can't tell how the area can support a huge international airport. Let's see. 

Chinchero historic sites

Next stop is Moray. The guide explained that Moray is a sink hole and the Inca used it to experiment crops with different microclimates as created by the sink hole. 
Sink holes in Moray

The salt mines are next. They are really ocean floors created into mountains during plates movement. And for a very very long time, the sea water came out from the aquifers and are collected to form salt. They form 2 layers, the white and pink salt and harvested according to the layers. There are 3500 salt mines. 
And they sell tickets and the salt to fund 600 families who are part of the original ownership. But we are told that the salt water will only last 50 years more. 

Salt mines

After that we stop for buffet lunch at Urubamba which we tried a typical Andean buffet lunch. 

Buffet lunch at Urubamba

Next stop is Ollantaytambo. If it sounds familiar, it's the place where you catch the train for the hike or to go to Agua Caliante to catch the bus. If it sounds closely connected to MP, it is. If you decide to do the 4 day Inca trail, this is where you start, just like the Inca times. 

Our guide Eddy told us that during those times, the villages are made up of a agricultural area (the terraces), a worship area (the sun temple) and a residential area (the villages outside the terraces). 

Ollantaytambo is an important area and they think it's a research lab to experiment with crops and close connection to MP. The sun temple during the equinox will have the sun light out of the profile of the sun god. There's also a face of a profile formed naturally by the mountain. 

Ollantaytambo ruins
The mountain face profile


The sun temple in Ollantaytambo with the profile face in the mountain

The view of the terraces 
More cute alpacas! 

Final stop is Pisac. The sheer volume of terraces there indicates the Inca used it to mass produce and  food storage. 
Pisac


Beautiful mountain view in Pisac

After the terrace, the guide brought us to Pisac town. It's a mining town and there's beautiful silver and stones jewelery. 

Beautiful jewelry in Pisac

After the tour, we got back to cusco and called the guide to make arrangements for the pickup the next day for our 2 day Inca trail. We had to miss our briefing at 6pm as we got back to Cusco at 7pm. Apparently not a lot of people make it for briefings as a lot of folks usually go do Sacred Valley tour before the hike 🙄 

Site note: the Sacred Valley really can use 2 full days as you barely get 15 mins to walk the ruins and there's a lot to see. Out of the 12 hours, 4 are on the road to get there from Cusco.  

We had a quick dinner at JC Cafe before going to sleep as the pick up the next day is 3am! 

JC cafe simple chicken soup and burger for dinner

Peru day 1 & 2 - Travel day and Cusco

 Peru Day 1

And we are off to South America, Machu Pichuu as part of my bucket list for my 50th Birthday

Plaza De Armas in Lima

The pink dots are the regions that we did in this trip. We barely did 4 out of 25 regions in the country yet it felt so diverse. 

For future references, Lima is at sea level. Cusco and Puno is around 3300 meters while Arequipa and Machu Picchu (MP) is around 2300 meters. And you do feel the high altitude acutely above 3000 meters while still manageable around 2300 meters. 

In our trip we saw travelers go from Lima to Arequipa before flying to Cusco to acclimate better. 
We won't have changed our trip as MP is the focus. But it's good to know how to plan our trips to other higher altitudes next time.  

Peru Regions and Places we went in this trip
 
Lima is the only international airport in Peru as of May 2026. During our trip Arequipa and Sacred Valley both indicated interest in an international airport but infrastructure is so lacking that I'm doubtful. 

We took Copa Airline, which flew into Lima with a stopover at Panama. Then we flew from Lima to Cusco which made a 16 hour travel day with all the stopover. Cusco is the only practical airport to access Machu Pichu (MP). 

We had a 3 hours layover and it gave us time to take a break and have lunch in Lima airport
Lunch at Lima Airport Domestic side

Cusco is a typical place to stage and plan Sacred valley and MP. Flying in, we can see the town in the mountains with a narrow air strip!
View of Cusco from the plane
Peru mountain range on the plane
Mountain range in Peru

Our hotel in Cusco is Tambo del Arriero boutique hotel for 3 nights. It's a couple of blocks from the main plaza with a reasonable cost of $100 a night. It's also very close to the office of the trek company.
We plan our last night in Cusco to go back to the same hotel so that we can leave the majority of our luggage with them and not bring to MP. 

Side note: Ollantaytambo is the town to get the train to the start of the hike and it's 2 hours minimum from Cusco. So it makes the hiking day a 3am pickup day. You can plan to stay in Ollantaytambo instead and get a 6am pick up. But it means you will need at least 2 days worth of overnight clothes plus hiking clothes and plan out the logistics of leaving your luggage with the trek company office. 

The hotel has great service. All Cuzco hotel seems to include breakfast and travelers are given a lunch box when you have to miss breakfast due to the 3 to 6am pick up for MP, Sacred Valley and Rainbow mountain. We only made it to one day of regular breakfast out of the days that we stayed there!
 
Cute hotel with upgraded amenities and pretty courtyard

Our Hotel courtyards

We had some altitude sickness pills. All hotels in the highland provide coca leaf to help with the altitude. We both felt fine when we landed. But just in case, we had a cup before settling in for the night. We were both exhausted from the long trip and didn't feel like getting dinner. 

Make your own Coca tea

Peru Day 2 Cusco City

Cusco is known as the city before MP =) But after this trip, i realized it's really more than a stop gap city. 
During the Inca time, it's the hub of the Inca empire, and a central fork to go into 4 cardinal directions, reaching Bolivia, Eucuador etc. 

It's a official Unesco World Heritage site and hold the Saqsaywaman and foundation stones of Qorikancha (Temple of the sun) 

Ps: The recommendation is to take it easy for at least a day to get acclimated with no alcohol. But that's not possible for our schedule 

We walked out to the plaza de armas and there a full parade going on. Had fun watching all the locals walking around the square with horses and bands. 

Plaza de Armas Cusco

Colorful Horses in the parade

Plaza De Armas

It took us a while to get through the square. Then we head to the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo that is also built on top of the Inca Sun temple.

View of the museum that has the temple site

Once we started climbing the steps, we can feel the altitude . I can barely climb for 10 mins and I'm struggling to catch my breath! 

We took our time making our way to the cathedral

Cusco Catherdral with the last supper showing a guinea pig

We stop at cute stores to buy souvenirs including a chocolate shop. 
Cacao tasting store

We slowly made our way to the mirador to see the city 

City Mirador view point 

The City of Cusco

Around the Mirador we stop at View Point Restaurant for a drink and ceviche 

Cute drinks, priceless view

We stop at Calle Siete Borreguitos with the aquaduct and the white washed walls

Calle Siete
More sites and one of the 7 lambs! 

All of this is us slowly making our way to the Inca ruins Saqsaywaman in Cusco 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacsayhuam%C3%A1n
The link has the significance of this fortress. It's clear the stone walls are so well built 
Saqsaywaman ruins
View of Cusco from the ruins
Roaming alpacas at Saqsaywaman

On our way back to the hotel, we stop at the trekking company to grab our duffel bag for MP overnight. 

Dinner that night we picked Chicha por Gaston Acurio. He's Peru's most famous celebrity chef in promoting Peruvian food to the world.  
We did their tasting menu that included 7 dishes, 2 cocktails, 3 Peruvian wines, water and coffee for $125 that's all inclusive. 

The first dish was a alpaca carpaccio, followed by a guinea pig taco. A rice dish with mushroom and scrambled egg, grilled trout with local potatos, hot stone of quinoa and beef ribs. Followed by 2 dessert, one is a palette cleanser and a really complex Chocolate and Lucuma mousse served in a chocolate husk. We also had Chicha sour as a cocktail which is a good introduction to chicas in Peru. 

What I like about this menu is it's really well thought out and executed. And it gives a very interesting twist to Peruvian highland food like Alpaca and guinea pig but in a totally different way. For eg it's not common that alpaca meat is eaten raw due to parasite concerns. And the "cuy" guinea pig had a black corn tortilla and done in a chinese peking duck style wrap except with guinea pig. And the quinoa is done in hot stone bibambap style

The dishes in Chicha


Tasting menu in Chicha