宇宁: Mexico city day 2

Food Tour Day

The Cathedral

Before we can go anywhere, we have to figure out the subway system. The hotel is near a metro station Auditorio and this city is so large and congested that subway is a more efficient way of moving around

Mexico City Subway

We figured out the multi trip card, the map and how to get there.. So bright and early we are off

The subway system is not tough but it's certainly crowded during peak hours.

It's very cheap at 5 pesos regardless of destination, as long as you stay in interconnected stations.

They also have woman/children only section which is great.

It's simpler than the subway in Japan or Singapore. But it's interesting that there's no announcement or door closing alert (only a bell alarm that has no definite end time). So we have to pay attention on stations and move closer to the door when we need to get off quickly

Navigating the Mexico city Subway

We got on the food tour at 10am and it lasted till 330pm! One of the longest tours I been on.

There's an incredible amount of food and we were all full by the market stop!

Food Stop #1: La Paraquia de Veracruz

We all gathered outside this morning brunch spot La Parraquia de Veracrus and met our guide Ana. Breakfast menu include their specialty coffee ding ding coffee (you have to hit the cup with a spoon to indicate that you are ready for the milk as it's part of a sailing tradition to get attention). They pour it from a height to create foam.

There's a good concha with crema, followed by gordo negro with mole and tomato sauce. The gordo negro is new for us. Sugar is mixed with the masa to give it that darker color but it's not sweet. Add the mole and tomato sauce with some crispy texture it's one of the favourite thing on the tour for me. We also had eggs with beans, plantains with bacon that we made into breakfast tacos. We are fortified for our 1.5 hours walk!

Big breakfast! Note the lady dancing with a cup on her head

Our next stop for food is 1.5 hours away. But along the way she explained the square that has the church, president office, mayor office and the market. There's a few aspects of the square that's significant. First is the society is made up of religion (church), politics (president) and social (market). And since the Aztec times, the square has all the 3 aspects in one spot. This area is called centro as it's the center of the society

Mayor's office

Panoramic view of the square without the church

The Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral

We also saw people queueing up to be cleansed by the Aztec. Ana said that the church was built on top of a Aztec temple and they believe the energy is to be cleansed near a religious spot. And they light herbs and brush against the person to clean bad energy and restore good luck. It's free and you tip.

People queuing up to be cleansed

Next Stop Herdez food museum

It was an interesting stop as she explained the 4 systems (cuartas milpas) for the traditional Mexican food. Corn is a huge crop for them but it leech the soil of nitrogen. That's why they plant beans to restore the nitrogen in the soil. And they have squash that has big leaves to create micro climate for good humidity control and chilli as natural pesticides. Apparently only human being can digest chilli and no other animal. Over time though, as the Europeans conquer Mexico, the traditional ways of cooking was slowly replaced by other ingredients and appliances.

They also had to use the stone to grind the corn on their knees which makes it more demeaning.

Fun fact, no flour tortilla in Mexico City! The altitude won't proof it

Looking at Mexican cuisine evolution over time

A coffee cup for people with moutache!

The museum also has a great view of the entire area from the 4th floor

View from the museum. If you can zoom in, u can see sinking buildings

Templo Mayor museum

Our next stop is the ruins from the Aztec times. The Aztec used to rule Mexico city and had their social, political and religious buildings that was found and excavated. The ruins are the flat building which is the market area. And the models show the Mexico city as an island with respect to entire Mexico and how the Aztec came to the island. Ana also pointed out that the stones has red and blue paint as they have figured out pigments at that point.

Ruins of the old market in Zocalo

Busy strees of El Centro

After that we went to this public synagogue which is a replica of one in Lithunia. The one in Lithunia is destroyed so they open this non-working synagogue to public. And Ana explained that there's a lot of Jews in Mexico city from 2 exodus and first one banned the religion but 2nd one they were allowed to practice. The place also has a cool translation of symbols to alphabets wall. There are 3 jewish guys in the tour group and one of them was able to read the inscriptions quite well and translated them for us.

Public synagogue in Mexico city

Food Stop 2: Market

The market has multiple stops. Had some Farfalla juice which is a mixture of Farfalla, guava, lime, pineapple that's super good.

Green juice withe the happy people mural behind the stall

After that we had a very good carnitas tacos from Don One that has a mix of lean meat and fattier parts.

Carnitas from Don One

We also had some fruits including Prickly pear (Cactus fruit), good mango and figs followed by a popsicle. (there's some crazy flavour like Mojito, Mezcal but i chose Ferrero Roche)

Fruit tasting

Ferro Roche Popsicle

She also showed us some murals in the market that was done by 2 woman who are not famous as they are working against the mexican government that time. What i realized in this trip is Mexico city is big into murals by artists.

the big murals in the market

Murals showing medicine help and prediction of nazi dominance

Murals of happiness during simpler times

Food stop #3: Resturant Taurino, El Taquito

This is an interesting place. It has wall of fame from Marilyn Monroe to Prince Charles. And Ana said it's a huge place where politicians come and discuss / negotiate. And it has tons of tribute to bull fighting till it got out of favour. We had a Mojate full of meat, napels, cheese, chorizo, guacamole as one dish, coupled with Chilli relleno and quesadilla. They gave us a cream with kahlua for dessert and I had a margarita on top of that. Pretty yummy

There's also an interesting discussion that in the north part, quesadilla needs queso. But in the south, the primary word means fold and not cheese.

Food and drinks at El Taquito

Food Stop #4: Cocina de Abuela

We had enchiladas in this place that's very flavourful but we are all so full that we can't really appreciate it at that point!

Hidden Alley of Cocina de Abuela

This area has printing booths where people can forge anything

Food stop #5: La Montenesa

This is a tequila stop for a very old school cantina that's very cool. If you rub the tequila on your hand, it should be oily and not watery, indication that it has not been diluted. Ana showed how locals drink tequila, putting salt on lime, suck it to open the taste buds, take a sip of tequila followed by a sip of sangrita (which is like a bloody mary mix with clamato instead of tomato juice). Again, too full and had to skip this =)

Tequila appreciation

After the food tour, Bill and I explored the rest of the Centro area. One of the stop is the palace of post office. I certainly have not seen a working post office that's this beautiful!

Post office Lobby

Working post office / Museum

We also walk to the museum of Belle Artes which is housing some displays.

Museum of Belle Artes

One of them is mural from Frida's husband Diego Riviera

One of Diego Riviera mural

And what i enjoyed the most is the playful display from Damian Ortega that includes sugar cubes slowly getting colored by coffee, transformer put together with shell fish and molecules display =)

Damian Ortega exhibit

And while it seems impossible to eat more, we have to get churros from El Moro which is the famous churros place. They have multiple branchs including one at El Centro and Polanco. Slightly overrated but still tasty