The music of Silence

the most beautiful sound on earth... absolute silence and yet, you hear music
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Saturday, November 27, 2021

La Paz Mexico, Nov 2021

A "post pandemic" gathering leads to us booking a charter boat in La Paz with 5 other friends. 
La Paz Clear waters and blue sky
Not knowing what to expect, I was surprised by clear and warm water that rivals Redang in Malaysia. 
With perfect weather between 20 to 28 deg C all day, it's great snorkeling and boating temperature.
 
Flying out of La Paz with volaris, i took this picture from the plane, showing the perfect clear ocean that's just stunning

Sea of cortez from the plane

Day 1
Departure day. First time using CBX express pedestrian crossing to get to Tijuana airport, before flying 2 hours to La Paz airport. 

La paz airport
A little chaotic figuring out where to go (gate changes, recheck in at tj departure hall) but all sorted out after a couple of wrong directions. 

The CBX division showing the border on the bridge

All of us lining up to get off the plane upon arrival

I did notice Volaris has a weird deplane strategy. They will only open the overhead cabins for folks who are allowed to get off the plane. So everyone has to remain seated till their overhead cabins are open..
Folks getting out about 10 rows at a time

After a car ride to the marina and resort
Costabaja resort

Beautiful view from the restaurant

We had lunch at the restaurant in the resort. I had soft shell crab tacos and we all had margaritas

Lunch at the marina restaurant

After lunch, we are ready for our catamaran adventures
Where is Juliana?


Spot the catamaran

Provisioning the boat, and those wines are for one night.. (others are hidden)

Our bed / cabin for the next 5 nights
Our toys for the next 5 days
La Paz Hyatt hotel next to the fuel dock
We hired a captain Oscar and cook Anita for this trip and it allows max relaxation for all of us. 

We have 3 Bills on board. 
Boat mum Bill swinging on the boat during sunset

Olde Bill after snorkeling


Cool Cerveza Billy

the 4 women.. and ignore Billy on the side

We left the marina for Balandra playa around 4pm on Monday and settled in for the night
Our first meal by Anita was fish fillets lightly battered with flour, served with mashed potatoes and salsa roja. No pics as my phone is charging. 

Day 2
The first night was a little rough. The boat started rocking when the waves came in. 
We also discovered everything that rocks and clatters on the boat and put everything away better (evil eye at the rolling fire extinguisher) 
We woke up to a beautiful day with me and bill kayaking before breakfast. 
After a scrambled egg tacos breakfast with fruits, all 7  of us loaded up on the dinghy to explore the beaches. None of us brought a camera but the clear waters are amazing. 

After that we left for isla San Francisco which is about 4 hours away. 

We had lunch en route. Anita prepared pulpo ceviche (octopus in love)a to start, finished by a great shrimp with Chipotle sauce with rice. 
After arrival all of us jumped into beautiful and clear ocean waters and it was simply beautiful


Great sunset for the 2nd night. 


Dinner was lentil soup with fish fillets cooked with olives and green chilli that's slightly spicy and sour.
Dessert is watching stars on the deck

Day 3
I discover sunrise is equally as nice as sunset out in the sea of Cortez 

Peaceful Sunrise sitting on the boat

After breakfast of making our own breakfast tacos with scrambled egg with vegetables
We left for a fishing village with a good snorkeling area
Fishing village in the middle of the ocean
Sea of Cortez from the top of the fishing village

The rocks beside the boat are good snorkeling sites

After snorkeling, Oscar and Anita radio the fishing village and we bought some big chocolate clams and Anita made raw clams with onions and salsa with them. Yum

Oscar helping us to open up the clams and prepping with Anita
Anita showing us how to eat it

Saved some pretty shells as trip souvenirs to make a succulent planter.

Our lunch that day (yes, the clams are a snack!) are government taco with ceviche. Government tacos are baked shrimp with bell peppers and onions. The key is vegetables have to be al dente after baking with cheese. The sauce that goes with it is a Chipotle cream sauce that's really good
Anita also prepared a Tamarindo with guava and cinnamon that's full of vitamin c to keep us warm after swimming
We made our way back to Isla San Francisco to anchor for the night.

After more snorkeling on the sides of the rocks and trying to topple boat mates on paddle board, it's time for more food! 
Dinner is smoked marlin stuffed in chili rellenos, served with Mac and cheese with yellow bell pepper

Day 4 (Thanksgiving day) 
Oscar got worried as the weather forecast is rainy and choppy. So he suggested that we can go back to marina dock for the night to avoid screaming children and crying woman.. 
We left Isla San Francisco on day 4. 
First we went to San Espiritu to look at the national park for sea lions. It's beautiful out there with the belching sea lions

Sea lions at San Espiritu
Playful sea lions 

We also stop at a few beautiful coves. 

One of the beautiful coves

Another cove with a cross

Leaving the cove
The breaking point . Left is Isla Partida and right is Espirito Santo

Then we brought the boat to another snorkeling site to enjoy another day of great snorkeling 

Playa Candelero snorkeling site



Bill having fun with the life ring


Pica Pica before real lunch before we waste away
 
Lunch at the snorkeling area

Thanksgiving lunch with chicken rellenos, grilled veg platter and mac & cheese

We went back to the marina for the night, enjoying the sunset from the boat 

Sunset from the ocean

It was a good choice to go back to the marina, as one of the holding tanks is not draining. So we need to get it pump out. Think exploding sewage out of the drain.. eewww
Bill battling the sewage holding tank

For dinner we are able to grill carne asada and Anita made crazy potatoes with them. She added double baked to the grill meat, put into foil packs with mushroom and cheese. Dessert is flan. A unique thanksgiving dinner

Loco patatas
Day 5
This is our last full day for the trip. Boat is wet from the rain the night before. And the sky is a little gray today. 
Perfectly round and warm pancakes for breakfast

After the holding tank is pumped out, we went to another cove what allows divers and swimmers to go into the waters with sea lions. We brought in the dinghy to take a look but it's pretty busy and dangerous with so many snorkelers and divers that we didn't linger

Tough to get good pictures trying not to crash into anyone

Instead, we took the dinghy to explore other coves around the area 

A small cove next to the boat docking area with mangroves

After that we went back to the boat to have lunch 

Lunch for our last day at sea, with fidel soup and chicken A la king

After lunch, we went snorkeling and saw more fishes and turtle. Lots of pretty corals too. 

We headed back into the marina again to spend the night. Anita has her special tataki and ahi poke with eel sauce for dinner. The tuna tataki has jalapenos sliced on top with ginger. 
Dinner with tuna tataki and poke
Day 6
Checkout and departure day.
All of us woke up a little sad to be leaving. 
But it's been a great trip. 
After another great breakfast by Anita with quesadilla, fruits and yoghurt, it's time for us to head out to the airport
Fun times , good friends, yummy food and great weather.. 

Tuesday, August 3, 2021

Oahu July 2021 Day 6 and Day 7

Food and more food..
Last 2 days before surfacing to the world.. Bill and I are working hard to maximize our chill time. 
Today we decide to check out Nico's at pier 38 based on recommendation from the bus guide.
Its an interesting place and got crowded by 11.30am. I got the sword fish and bill got deep fry tuna belly. Both are good and fresh. Coupled with pesto shrimp, happy campers.
Nico's at Pier 38 

Chilled the whole day before going to get souvenirs at Hilton Hawaiian. After that we had a quick and easy dinner with some store bought salad and rotisserie chicken. 

View: priceless.. meal: $6 each with wine included
MW restaurant
MW menu and location
Our foodie splurge for the trip. 
I picked mw as it's a 30 mins walk away and also the dessert chef won a James beard award for her dessert. 
We did the tasting menu and bill added wine pairing and I added the truffle foie Gras loco moto. 
Summary pictures for the food
It feels like this restaurant is still trying to find its path to Michelin star, but not quite there yet. 
Also, it feels they are struggling to keep up with the tables both at kitchen and front staff. So it might be worth a return visit if things return to normal. 

Started with a cold curry soup that's flavourful 
Amuse Bouche of curry soup

The five small bites are interesting although Bill felt they could have toasted the lobster roll as it needs a crunch
5 small bites (poke nacho, tatami, oyster rockefeller, musubi twist and lobster roll)

The Hawaiian yellow tail is very tasty but the banchan does not seems to fit with the fish. And Bill drizzled all his sauce and it turns out to be too much 
Signature Mochi with Hawaiian yellow tail 
Scallops and this is a very successful dish. Enjoyed it.. with the Nege wasabi sauce *nege = japanese green onion*
Nege Wasabi sauce with Scallops
Foie Loco Moto with truffle
With the above combination, easily my favorite dish of the night. Very rich and creamy and medium rare foie. Perfectly executed
Heaven in a bite
Steak Tenderloin 
Very tender and flavourful. My only issue is nobody serve steak in a bowl as it's too difficult to cut the steak 
Beef Tenderloin with vegetable medley
Passion fruit Creme Brulee 
A very lovely dessert and well executed. 

Passion fruit Creme Brulee

Oahu July 2021 Day 5

Oahu Island Tour Day
Beautiful beach in Oahu
Usually we avoid the big tour bus but this time it's the easiest to see most of Oahu in the Circle Island tour.  The tour brought us up the east side up to the north before coming down south again. Our guide is call Bk and he's pretty nice and informative.
Tour details
Took a total of 9 hours, leaving at 7am and coming back at 430pm. Fortunately it's a well sync group and well organized tour so we enjoyed it.
Tour details with wait at Hilton village bus depot
Blow hole
They provided a poi malasada for breakfast that they hand out at the blow hole. 
First stop: Blow hole with poi malasada
We bypassed the Hanauma Bay as it's closed to big tours now and went to 2nd stop. 
Nu'uanu Pass  
Very windy and great view here at the pass. The guide pointed out the importance of the war at this pass to uniting the islands under one king. 

Nu'uanu Pass sights
Chinaman's hat along the way (imagination required)
Byodo-In temple
This is easily my favorite spot on the whole trip. 
Love the mountain and the temple tucked in the trees. It's not big but i certainly enjoyed the ambience
Spot the temple!
Japanese temple in the mountains

Different corners of the temple

Haleiwa
The tour then went to a macadamia farm but it's so crazy that we didn't stay too long. And after that we stop at Haleiwa which is a beach town near north shore. 
Camaron: Garlic shrimp food truck at Haleiwa.. Yum

We had fun poking our heads into art galleries in the little town and shopping before heading back to Waikiki
cute sightings in Haleiwa

Dole plantation
Yes, tourist trap and we had dole whip. Bill say pineapple ice cream is better  =)
Dole whip in the cheesy dole plantation
Waikiki downtown 
BK gave us a tour of the Iolani palace where the coronation of the first king and queen took place. The palace is now supreme court. 
And there's a church that's a miniature size west minister abbey and missionary quarters. 
We didn't have a chance to go back to visit the places but maybe next trip. 
Waikiki downtown iconic places
How many picture-perfect beach photos can u take in Hawaii???!!! 
Going to the beach! 

Oahu July 2021 Day 3 and Day 4

Chilling in Hawaii
Waikiki Yc Transpac Party 2021
Day 3 is the day that bill and crew got Juno to the boat yard. Our vacation officially started when the boat is dropped off .
We walked to a place that has good musubi take out and enjoyed it at the alcove in Royal Hawaiian hotel. 
If you haven't had a good musubi, find one in Hawaii. It's spam with teriyaki sauce, filled with good Japanese sushi rice and a crunchy seaweed wrap. Comes with other toppings like egg or kimchi etc. 
Good musubi and view from Royal Hawaiian alcove
Its tough to get a good picture of the hotel but the salmon pink is certainly iconic! It's the 2nd hotel to be built on Waikiki, after the SurfRider. 

Then we trek our way through the beach to go back to the hotel. Tons of people along Waikiki  and saw a group of surfers students. Brings back memories! 
Surfing class at Waikiki 
Waikiki YC Party for Transpac
Men of Juno
The Waikiki YC and Hawaii YC both took turns hosting a party for Transpac crew. We only attended the one for Waikiki as we have other plans for Thur night. 
The food at Waikiki is great.. Free flow of appetizers (poke, caprese, cerviche and beef wellington) . And had a good surf and turf dinner with cream sauce Mahi Mahi and prime rib.
Waikiki YC party for Transpac

Night View from Waikiki YC
 
Day 4 with more food =) 
Started day 4 with breakfast at Aloha Kitchen with Marnie and Charlie.
Very crowded place with no reservations allowed. So be prepared to wait for an hour. 
Aloha kitchen kalua pork and souffle pancake
Finally got to try souffle pancake. Heard about it last year but didn't find it easily in San Diego. I got the coconut Macadamia pancake. It's good but I feel like the skin on the pancake gets rubbery with the slow cooking to get the bubbles to stabilize. So i'm not decided if i like pancake made this way yet. 
Bill has a good egg Benedict although the kailia pork is a little too salty. 

That night we walked to mud Hen Water restaurant with a friend and had a really good time. About an hour walk to the restaurant (about an hour) but it's certainly out of the touristy zone and a cute corner of Honolulu! 
We had to rehydrate Dave at the restaurant after the walk =) 

Well executed local dishes by the restaurant

Oahu July 2021 Day 1 and Day 2

Transpac 2021
Juno is the boat that enabled this trip
Another transpac! Bill is sailing again to Hawaii from Los Angeles 10 years later. 
It is our first flight after covid shutdown. We had discussed it for almost a year, between the boat readiness, covid situation and finally we decided to go for it.
Oahu! we are back!
After the trip, my advice to folks is be prepared that people are stir crazy after 1 year of confinment. There will be lines, crowds, airport shuttle that don't even bother to reply. Roll with the tide and know you have to adjust from the "norm". Make reservations early for places that you really want to visit. 

Hawaii does not require quarantine if proof of vaccination is shown. You need to fill out online forms and finish a questionnaire 24 hours before departure. You will receive a QR code that's required to be validated. You get a wrist band if you validate at the departure gate or this piece of paper at arrival gate.
My pass to Hawaii
Bill got in at 1am the day that I flew in. So I was not able to meet him at the dock. But Marnie, Charlie & his sister Jackie were able to do it. 
Juno at the finish line
 And yes, they changed for team shirt to take picture 😁

Our room at Ilikai Hotel that is quite cozy and functional, with a great view.
Room in Ilikai Hotel
Great view from the balcony which we made great use
Spent a lot of time drinking rum at the balcony (sunset included)

As Charlie sailed to Hawaii too on Nereid, Marnie is in town too. So we all met up for lunch and dinner on Tuesday
Lunch at the Hawaiian village with poke bowl and calamari 
Royal Hawaiian Tropics bar Poke bowl and calamari

Uncle Bo's pupu bar is an interesting find by Jackie. Had pulled pork with taro buns, greasy noodles, Steak with cheese bread & mushroom sauce and shrimp dynamite. They also have a great dessert that's similar to beignet with vanilla ice cream and a creamy sauce. yum. 

Family dinner at Uncle Bo Pupu bar 

Canal near Uncle Bo

Trophy presentation at Hawaii yacht club