The music of Silence

the most beautiful sound on earth... absolute silence and yet, you hear music
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Saturday, August 9, 2014

Big apple adventure day 7 and 8

Today is our last full day in New York.
Having recovered from the 8 hours in Met, we decide to tackle the Museum of Modern Art today.

First thing first, breakfast from a nearby bakery in Chinatown. Everything we had is very good and cheap.
The perfect coconut tart with really flaky crust and Hong Kong milk tea.



Museum of Modern Art (Moma)
Moma is an interesting art museum. It's much smaller than MET and almost too crowded.
It's not designed to be wide and spatial, but more tall and modern. Not the best combination for crowds.

Great Picasso pieces and i like the girl in the mirror

Picasso (More fun)


They have one of the biggest Monet water lily canvass that I ever seen, too big for a good picture.

Van Gogh starry night and olive tree is on display, on top of Andy Warhof art pieces.
Van Gogh Starry night and Olive tree


Calf kicking a ball, with energy


Lunch at Moma


Leaving Moma, we found this artist who did a Brooklyn Bridge painting that we really like. She painted one on the spot for us.





Jazz standard
For the last night, we met up with Peter and Faranak at Jazz Standard for dinner that night.


I really like the music and the ambience. It is pretty cool watching a good jazz bands playing in a basement. The band is extremely relaxed and the trombone player/vocal singer has a beer on stage =)
They are also discussing what pieces to play and how to play it, through the performances. Every player has top notch technical skills though. Impressive solo playing.




Dessert: hookah bar
My first experience with Hookah. It's fun. A cool way to finish the last night in New York with a new experience






Day 8
The next morning, we only had a few hours before heading to the airport on the last day. We walked around little Italy and find Parisi bakery, Lombardi pizza, the public theater and the shopping area on Broadway.

I find Lombardi pizza over rated though. Joes pizza is still better although Lombardi pizza sauce is more complex. Another new York joint that only takes cash.



We packed the chicken cutlet sandwich at Parisi bakery for the flight. For $10, it's enough to feed both of us for 2 meals again. 

Half a chicken cutlet sandwich. Now THAT'S a sandwich!

Coming to the end of the trip, my impression of NY has changed.
It's still dirty, messy and chaotic in some places. But a lot of gentrification is going on.
What i internalized is the city is still growing and still under going changes. NY only start developing into a financial hub ~ 30 years ago and it's impressive for what they achieved in that relatively short amount of time.
Walking away from the city, i learned a little more about it, and a little more about America.
But i still wished they don't leave trash out on the streets =) 



Big apple adventure day 6

Today is the day of lines


We queued up in Central Park at 830am for free tickets to King Lear in Delacorte Theater.

It is part of Shakespeare in the Park, free theater for everyone.

The queuing is an experience. The line is at least 500m long by the time we got there, with everyone on mats and blankets. The tickets are distributed at 12, and the line compressed at 1140am.
It's a very civilized event, from delivery deli to 3-4 theater staff organizing the line. Nobody is allowed to leave or join you, except for bathroom breaks and concession stands.









This is the result of our patience and 4 hours of queueing! 2 free tickets to see John Lithgow.




Pond in Central park



More buildings .... 



View from Belvedere Tower




Halal Brothers
Next lineThe Halal Bro food cart in front of Moma and a 20 minutes queue.
Good gyro and chicken with saffron rice! Highly recommended. Cheap too. We got enough food for lunch and dinner for $12. That's a pretty good deal!



After that, we walked around 9/11 memorial and I liked what they did to the old twin tower sites.
Very somber and elegant.



King Lear was much better than Book of Mormon though less entertaining. The 3.5 hours went quick though as it's a good show. It's a good experience that i really like. Unfortunately they don't allow us to take any pictures in the theater even before the show starts.

Big apple adventure day 5

What to do on a hot and humid summer day in New York? Hudson River biking!


Hudson River
Pit stop with our tandem bike

View of New Jersey from the Hudon River

We did a tandem bike rental at a bike shop. No names here as they are annoying.
Anyway, the bike ride is nice along the Hudson River waterfront.
It gets a little hairy through the financial district as Battery Park's bike path is not ready yet.
But it's good entertainment for 2.5 hours, enjoying the view and a different New York.

View of the new freedom tower from the river

Brooklyn Food Adventure
First stop: Peter Lugers
After that, we took the East Ferry taxi to south Williamsburg bridge in Brooklyn to eat at Peter Lugers.
It's crazy that they charge $95 for a 2 person porterhouse steak, yet only take cash or debit card.
And No, we didn't go for the porterhouse. =) Instead, we shared their lunch burgers that takes the trim from the aged porterhouse and its really good.
The bacon is phenomenal! Probably one of the best I had!
The waiter is really nice too, bringing us water, bread rolls, after-dinner chocolate despite the fact that we are sharing the cheapest item on the menu!


Luke's 
Next stop, Luke lobster roll. This is supposedly one of the best deal for lobster roll in town. Warm, crusty, buttery bun filled with lobster. However, it's not on our favorite list as I find the lobster lack brininess and taste. I think the lobster is frozen and defrosted. Bummer



Brooklyn ice cream factory
Good flavor on their vanilla ice cream with great dark choc chip. Toned down on sugar and nicely airy. But they are out of butter pecan flavour which was my reason for being there. :(



Brooklyn and Dumbo is WAY less over-run by tourists compared to Manhattan. It's really nice even though it's too hot to stay in the sun.

Under the Brooklyn bridge

Book of Mormon musical
That night, we went to watch the Book of Mormon @ Eugene O Neil. It's a beautiful theater


I missed half the jokes as I need subtitles and a crash course on American pop culture. I can see why it's popular/funny and why it's offensive.
I had a few moments of good chuckles. But I'm not so amused that I feel the need to clap every 5 seconds, unlike the crazy aneroxic girl behind me (and yes, she's annoying)
What I did feel was it lacked the immortality of Andrew Lloyd Webber's composition, the talent of Les Mis to compose a whole musical using one motif, a powerful story like Wicked.
I walked out with a mild sense of disturbing weirdness, not remembering any music.
What the Book Of Mormon creates is fleeting rudeness that will, probably and hopefully, not be remembered after 5 years.
I guess when you are not that good, how else can you be remembered, except by being offensive?

Anyway, we went to a few pizza places to have dinner after the play. Bleecker street pizza and Joe pizza are still the top contender for our favorite pizza joint. Bleecker has a crunchier crust and Joe's sauce is better. But one thing we both agree: It's going to be so difficult to enjoy pizza in San Diego after this :)




Big apple adventure day 4


Statue of Liberty 
It's strange that the most iconic structure in America can only be accessed by boat. We took the Staten Island Ferry which is free and much less crowded than the ferry tour that goes to SoL.



In fact, one lady told us the Statue of Liberty boat tour have 2 security checks, 20k people on the island at any point in time and barely enough room to see from the pedestal. I'm so glad we decide not to do that and view it from SIF instead.

View of SOL from Staten Island Ferry 

Food tour 2 (Chelsea Market) 
Bob is our tour guide and the information for the food tour is below
http://www.foodsofny.com/chelseamarket.php

Bob has a ton of knowledge on NY as he's volunteering for Big Apple Greeters and heavily involved in the 9/11 memorial.
So we got a lot of good information around the meat packing district and Chelsea market.




Anyway, this food tour was less interesting on food but heavier on historical information. Also, it's such a busy market that we are avoiding crowds and trying to talk in "quieter" corners.

Trivial about Chelsea market
Chelsea market has very interesting history, going from cargo handling hub to factory for Nabisco to the epicurean center/office building now.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chelsea_Market

Nabisco used to do production there before running out of space. Uneeda was the top biscuit for a while.
These are some old pictures of their biscuits containers found in Chelsea market



The rail that connects the different buildings are built during the cargo years.
Until they raised it high, that rail line will periodically crash with the regular passenger rail line and killed about 400+ people. The 10th avenue is also known as the Death Avenue during that time.

Nabisco took over the buildings, use the rail line for their production sequence and invented Oreo there. They moved out when they ran out of space and the building stayed vacant for a few years till they re-purposed it for Chelsea market.

All food vendors in Chelsea market are invitation only from the owner, no chains allowed. Food network main office is on top of Chelsea market, together with companies like Google and Youtube.

That rail line forms the backbone of the High Line today.

Dickson
We enjoyed a beef salami and smoked pork from the Dickson meat



Buon Italia
We had Crostata (Italian quiche) made in-house by the owner. Flaky crust and soft
http://www.buonitalia.com/dettaglio_ricetta.asp?rid=19
They have some recipes online too. 80% of the store merchandise are made in Italy.



Lucy's Whey
Great cave-aged cheese and it's also used in the cheddar/fig/honey sandwich made with a good French bread.



Miscellaneous
Sea salt tasting with cucumbers (not impressed with the salt although it's endorsed by Martha Stewart). It just tasted salty to me, not particularly interesting.
Chocolate milk (from Ronnybrook) is good but i prefer the full cream version. It's supposed to be used by a lot of top restaurants in the city.
I really like the Fig caramel from Liddabit Sweet and Sea salt caramel candy is ok.



Sarabeths
Biscuits and spreadable fruit with raspberry and marmalade. As no pectin is used, it can't be called jam or jelly by FDA. Hence spreadable fruit. They are both really good.




High Line
After this, we came out of Chelsea market and walked to the meat packing district via the High line.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Line_(New_York_City)
The High line is really cool as a pedestrian pathway in the sky.
We both enjoyed it so much that we went back after the tour and walked most of it.
It's built completely using funds from Friends of High line instead of city taxes.
Piet Oudolf designed the plants so that they flower perennially and do not need replanting.



What is everyone watching??











Ohh.. the traffic =)


















Meatpacking district
The meat packing district also has some colorful history, from drugs/prostituition/mob to the current High end clothing and restaurant areas. The unlawful activities was initially ignored as it's viewed as a good way for sailors to blow off steam and stay out of trouble. However, 80s the NYPD cleaned it up due to Aids. . The police used harassment technique on patrons to clean up the area, by taking their pictures and putting them on billboards for repeat offenders.

Macelleria
Tasting bolognese pasta in the restuarant. See the meat hooks holding pans in the kitchen?




Revel
we had a glass of Prosecco and a small slice of flourless chocolate cake in Revel. I really like that garden and the cake is divine. The mousse on the top feels like frozen unsweetened condensed milk. Yum.


Tabata Ramen
We decide to go to Hell's kitchen that night for a light dinner as we are both full from the food tour. We decide to try a traditional ramen place to compare with Momofuku. Half the price compared to Momofuku and way better ramen!





Big apple adventure day 3

Again, waking up to a bagel breakfast. We went to a new place near our apartment call Bax Bagel. Got my lox fix with good lox, but the bagels are not as good as H&H Bagel.


But I think we are both cream-cheese bageled out ;) and that spelt the last of our bagel breakfast in Manhattan

We went to Rockefeller center to get our tickets for the observation deck that night.
Of course, I need my picture with 30 Rock!
Captured some shots of other places along the way.



Grand Central Station
Central Library

Windows display by Saks on 5th Ave




View on Park Blvd

Food tour 1 (Greenwich)
The food tour is Original Greenwich which focus around the Italian section in Greenwich.
The guide is Bert and the information for the food tour is in the link below.
http://www.foodsofny.com/greenwichvillage.php

Making sure we leave enough room on the side walk as he talks 
I enjoyed it a lot as Bert is a foodie and we learned a lot about food and the area.
The amazing thing for me is to taste different tomato sauces in all these restaurants. Look so similar and yet taste so different.

Joe's Pizza
We started with Joe's pizza which use bagel dough instead of pizza dough.
No yeasty taste, great crunchy thin crust and good cheese. The guide said a good cheese will not form a river of oil on the top of the pizza like vegetable-oil-based cheese. Interesting.
We both voted this the best pizza that we had in Manhattan, after 6 days of trying different pizza places



.

Olivers & Co (Olive oil)
2nd stop is Oliver's where we tasted basil olive oil, popcorn infused with truffle oil and truffle salt and 20year red wine vinegar based balsamic vinegar vs 8 year grape-malt based balsamic vinegar. The 8 year one is much better and sweeter. Also, Never buy olive oil in clear glass as light degenerates it.  See the clear bottles at the bottom of the cage? They are filled with olive oil instead of canola oil.



Fiacco (Italian market)
3rd stop is rice balls Arancini from Fiacco which sells fabulous Italian sandwiches and Italian meats.
Arancini: Rice balls filled wtih home made mozzarella cheese and deep fried, for $1 each.
Also, the food in that market are sold at very reasonable prices. Bert said that's because they are there for so long, with a reasonable mortgage that's been paid off.



Red Awning restuarant (Trattoria)
4th stop is meat ball from red awning restaurant next to Faicco. The meatball is all beef, very little binder, yet sooo tender. With a very good tomato sauce.. Yum. The restuarant also has original copper ceilings that's very intricate




Rafele
5th stop : Rolled egg plant, where eggplants are sliced thin, brined to remove liquid, seared and rolled with ricotta cheese, with a family secret sauce. The tomatoes are owner-growned San Marzano tomatoes too.



Desserts (Milk & Cookies, Cheese, Royce and Rocco)
6th and 7th stop are desserts with a great chocolate chip cookie and some good cheese from a cheese school. The last stop is cannoli from Rocco which is very good. NY cannoli seems to favor cream that are dense and cinnamon-ly.






Trivial information about Greenwich
1)Greenwich is the 3rd most ex neighborhood in Manhattan. Average rent: 2k/mth for 300 sqft

2)Broadway theater has >500 seats, off off Broadway has <100 seats and off Broadway is everything in between.

3)The brick laying technique is indicative of the year of buildings, with the straight laying being the oldest and alternate laying after that. There are a lot of buildings in the city using uneven colored bricks as they are bad bricks used to build housing for menial workers.

4)You can also see the original building with the roof top chimneys that goes up to 3 floors and subsequent added levels in the other buildings in order to accommodate the population in NY. However, in order to avoid the handicap law of adding an escalator for buildings taller than 3 levels, a lot of buildings declare a lobby at the ground floor to work around the system.



5)Edna St Vincent Milay lived in a small house in Greenwich, that charge 14k/mth rent at some point. She also started her own off-broadway theater around the corner as she got tired of dealing with rules of other theaters.






6)There's a lot of lamp posts in Manhattan (shown above) with a flashing light and emergency 911 call button
7) Nice courtyard house in Greenwich used for debauchery in the old times. And an old door with a low key hole for waist-carrying keys and shoe-cleaning stairs



8) Wooden house in NY: one of the few ones that's left. 2 fire hydrants on each side for fire concerns  



Times Square
Over-run with tourists, need i say more?
NYPD being used as tourist attraction is interesting.. and no, that's not a busker =) The guns are real.



Top of The Rock view 
At twilight, we visited Top of the Rock and planned it such that we got both the twilight and night view of Manhattan. It's crowded and we stayed on the ledge for 1.5 hours to capture the 2 views of NY skyline. So i'm posting A LOT of pictures of the same view =)
Entrance ticket with skyline pictures

Central park View
























Empire State Building and financial district View 
Same view with Lights on


MoMoFuKu Dinner
After TOTR, we decide to try the Ramen bar and i'm disappointed with the ramen.
They must have sou-vied the pork but it lack character while being really tender.
They tried to do the Ivan-Sorkin clear broth with smoky chicken flavor but somehow it does not quite hit the spot for me.
The noodles is slightly overcooked and the egg is undercooked, with parts of the egg white still transparent.
The ramen broth is also served way too cold.
Maybe this is too sophisticated for me but i had high expectations that's not met.
A good ramen is supposed to be cheap comfort food, not some fancy fu-fu crap that's overpriced ($18 for one bowl) and executed badly.