Mexico city day 2

Food Tour Day

The Cathedral

Before we can go anywhere, we have to figure out the subway system. The hotel is near a metro station Auditorio  and this city is so large and congested that subway is a more efficient way of moving around

Mexico City Subway

We figured out the multi trip card, the map and how to get there.. So bright and early we are off

The subway system is not tough but it's certainly crowded during peak hours. 

It's very cheap at 5 pesos regardless of destination, as long as you stay in interconnected stations.

They also have woman/children only section which is great. 

It's simpler than the subway in Japan or Singapore. But it's interesting that there's no announcement or door closing alert (only a bell alarm that has no definite end time). So we have to pay attention on stations and move closer to the door when we need to get off quickly

Navigating the Mexico city Subway

We got on the food tour at 10am and it lasted till 330pm! One of the longest tours I been on. 

There's an incredible amount of food and we were all full by the market stop! 

Food Stop #1: La Paraquia de Veracruz

We all gathered outside this morning brunch spot La Parraquia de Veracrus and met our guide Ana. Breakfast menu include their specialty coffee ding ding coffee (you have to hit the cup with a spoon to indicate that you are ready for the milk as it's part of a sailing tradition to get attention). They pour it from a height to create foam. 

There's a good concha with crema, followed by gordo negro with mole and tomato sauce. The gordo negro is new for us. Sugar is mixed with the masa to give it that darker color but it's not sweet. Add the mole and tomato sauce with some crispy texture it's one of the favourite thing on the tour for me. We also had eggs with beans, plantains with bacon that we made into breakfast tacos. We are fortified for our 1.5 hours walk! 

Big breakfast! Note the lady dancing with a cup on her head

Our next stop for food is 1.5 hours away. But along the way she explained the square that has the church, president office, mayor office and the market. There's a few aspects of the square that's significant. First is the society is made up of religion (church), politics (president) and social (market). And since the Aztec times, the square has all the 3 aspects in one spot. This area is called centro as it's the center of the society 

Mayor's office

Panoramic view of the square without the church

The Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral

We also saw people queueing up to be cleansed by the Aztec. Ana said that the church was built on top of a Aztec temple and they believe the energy is to be cleansed near a religious spot. And they light herbs and brush against the person to clean bad energy and restore good luck. It's free and you tip. 

People queuing up to be cleansed

Next Stop Herdez food museum

It was an interesting stop as she explained the 4 systems (cuartas milpas) for the traditional Mexican food. Corn is a huge crop for them but it leech the soil of nitrogen. That's why they plant beans to restore the nitrogen in the soil. And they have squash that has big leaves to create micro climate for good humidity control and chilli as natural pesticides. Apparently only human being can digest chilli and no other animal. Over time though, as the Europeans conquer Mexico, the traditional ways of cooking was slowly replaced by other ingredients and appliances. 

They also had to use the stone to grind the corn on their knees which makes it more demeaning. 

Fun fact, no flour tortilla in Mexico City! The altitude won't proof it

Looking at Mexican cuisine evolution over time

A coffee cup for people with moutache!

The museum also has a great view of the entire area from the 4th floor

View from the museum. If you can zoom in, u can see sinking buildings

Templo Mayor museum 

Our next stop is the ruins from the Aztec times. The Aztec used to rule Mexico city and had their social, political and religious buildings that was found and excavated. The ruins are the flat building which is the market area. And the models show the Mexico city  as an island with respect to entire Mexico and how the Aztec came to the island. Ana also pointed out that the stones has red and blue paint as they have figured out pigments at that point. 

Ruins of the old market in Zocalo

Busy strees of El Centro

After that we went to this public synagogue which is a replica of one in Lithunia. The one in Lithunia is destroyed so they open this non-working synagogue to public. And Ana explained that there's a lot of Jews in Mexico city from 2 exodus and first one banned the religion but 2nd one they were allowed to practice. The place also has a cool translation of symbols to alphabets wall. There are 3 jewish guys in the tour group and one of them was able to read the inscriptions quite well and translated them for us. 

Public synagogue in Mexico city

Food Stop 2: Market 

The market has multiple stops. Had some Farfalla juice which is a mixture of Farfalla, guava, lime, pineapple that's super good. 

Green juice withe the happy people mural behind the stall

After that we had a very good carnitas tacos from Don One that has a mix of lean meat and fattier parts. 

Carnitas from Don One

We also had some fruits including Prickly pear (Cactus fruit), good mango and figs followed by a popsicle. (there's some crazy flavour like Mojito, Mezcal but i chose Ferrero Roche) 

Fruit tasting

Ferro Roche Popsicle

She also showed us some murals in the market that was done by 2 woman who are not famous as they are working against the mexican government that time. What i realized in this trip is Mexico city is big into murals by artists. 

the big murals in the market

Murals showing medicine help and prediction of nazi dominance

Murals of happiness during simpler times

Food stop #3: Resturant Taurino, El Taquito 

This is an interesting place. It has wall of fame from Marilyn Monroe to Prince Charles. And Ana said it's a huge place where politicians come and discuss / negotiate. And it has tons of tribute to bull fighting till it got out of favour. We had a Mojate full of meat, napels, cheese, chorizo, guacamole as one dish, coupled with Chilli relleno and quesadilla. They gave us a cream with kahlua for dessert and I had a margarita on top of that. Pretty yummy 

There's also an interesting discussion that in the north part, quesadilla needs queso. But in the south, the primary word means fold and not cheese. 

Food and drinks at El Taquito

Food Stop #4: Cocina de Abuela

We had enchiladas in this place that's very flavourful but we are all so full that we can't really appreciate it at that point! 

Hidden Alley of Cocina de Abuela

This area has printing booths where people can forge anything

Food stop #5: La Montenesa

This is a tequila stop for a very old school cantina that's very cool. If you rub the tequila on your hand, it should be oily and not watery, indication that it has not been diluted. Ana showed how locals drink tequila, putting salt on lime, suck it to open the taste buds, take a sip of tequila followed by a sip of sangrita (which is like a bloody mary mix with clamato instead of tomato juice). Again, too full and had to skip this =) 

Tequila appreciation

After the food tour, Bill and I explored the rest of the Centro area. One of the stop is the palace of post office. I certainly have not seen a working post office that's this beautiful! 

Post office Lobby

Working post office / Museum

We also walk to the museum of Belle Artes which is housing some displays. 

Museum of Belle Artes

One of them is mural from Frida's husband Diego Riviera 

One of Diego Riviera mural

And what i enjoyed the most is the playful display from Damian Ortega that includes sugar cubes slowly getting colored by coffee, transformer put together with shell fish and molecules display =)

Damian Ortega exhibit

And while it seems impossible to eat more, we have to get churros from El Moro which is the famous churros place. They have multiple branchs including one at El Centro and Polanco. Slightly overrated but still tasty

El Moro churro

We were walking to the subway and got some local coffee.

Do Brasil coffee as souvenir

After that, we called it a day and took the subway back to the hotel ! Whew.. what a day! 

Mexico city day 1

Mexico City 

After years of discussing visiting south America, we end up going to Mexico city. Lol.. It's just easier. 

Mexico City

We got lucky on our trip. It's supposed to be the rainy season and it's really not too bad. The weather is breezy and slightly overcast and need a light weight jacket in the am and night. 

We can definitely feel the altitude climbing stairs and my cream coming out of tubes before I squeeze it

In front of Mexico City President Palace

First day is always the travel day so not as much to report on. 

Taxi ride from airport during peak hour is always terrifying 😂

Getting to Polanco district with the trees and side street highlights the charm of this area. 

Expensive shopping district in Polanco

JW Marriott is nice and centrally located. We got 5 free nights with them and planned the trip after securing a reservation with Pujol, which is 10 mins walk from the hotel. 

Lobby of JW Marriott

Our room for 5 nights 

We rewarded ourself with tacos at night around Polanco area as we are too tried to roam far. 

First stop is El Turix which has a Yucantan style cochinita which is slow cooked pork. He had also gordo negro which has bean paste (precooked) put into the masa and deep fried. It's a little scary looking at how black the oil used for frying but still tasty =) 

El Turix Tacos

We got a suggestion from the hotel to go to El Pastor in Polanco but not our favourite place. The El pastor and pastor negro is quite interesting. Suadero is too dry though. 

El Pastor

Walking back to the hotel, I saw Amorino ice cream and immediately cross the road! it's one of my favourite in Italy and it does not disappoint

Amorino ice cream.. yum

Amorino ice cream.. yum

Paso Robles 2023

It's been a while since we go to Paso. 

Our friends (Colleen and Matt) are more familiar with the region so wanted to go with them to see Paso through their eyes. 

This is a 2023 trip that I only managed to finish the blog in 2024 😅 so I lost a lot of details. 

On our way up we stop at Mijares which is a really old school Mexican place. 

Food isn't memorable but very CA typical Mexican that's not authentic. 

Mijares on the way up to Paso

First stop Denner winery

Beautiful property and decent wine. But slightly overpriced for me and Bill. Too early to commit for wine too 

Denner winery

2nd stop Tablas Creek

Bill and I both liked the wine there esp the white and rose. They also have a picnic area that we end up eating lunch there. Colleen and Matt knew a good cheese shop and we bought some cheese and bread for the picnic lunch in town before we head to the tastings. 

Tasting at Tablas creek

Picnic lunch at Tablas Creek

3rd Stop Chronic cellars

Hee.. no pictures for this one as we are tired by then. So we end up tasting the wine, took Cosmo their dog for a walk around the lawn and went back to the hotel after that 

The first night dinner Matt suggested to go to Jeffrey's BBQ. Very good BBQ that's hidden in an alley behind a dumpster. Nice outdoor seating too

Jefferey's BBQ 

2nd Day Paso 

1st stop Fratelli Perata

This is a stop recommended by another friend and we liked it so much that we decide to join the club! 

Fratelli Perata

2nd stop

My recollection for this winery is a little hazy as i forgot to take pictures. I remember it only sells pinot noir and has a cat that's wandering in the tasting room and a great server. They also had some tasty italian crackers that we all end up going to buy that day at Tin City. 

3rd stop Dusi

This winery is on our way to Oso libre and we decide that to stop there. The wine maker is the young daughter who owned a lot of grapes in the winery. She is making good wine and we really liked her new line. It was also interesting to realize that making wine is risky for farmers! if they sell the wine they turn the profit right away. If they make wine they risk not getting good quality wine and profit down the drain. 

Cute winery Dusi

4th stop Oso libre

They have a special event for members which is why Colleen and Matt picked this weekend. 

Good mariachi band with tacos and photo booth. We had a good time 

Oso libre event with good mariachi band

Soaking up the sun and atmosphere

Tin City in Paso

After the winery, we decide to visit tin city. 

It's an area that's gathering all the different vendors for food and drinks that's getting very popular. 

Italian store ETTO that has tarallini crackers that went so well with wine

That night Bill and I wanted to try some chinese food and went to this place in Paso (not downtown but a couple of freeway stops away). Surprised by how good everything is and very authentic! 

Good chinese food in Paso 

Our wine purchases from Paso

Valley Trip April 2024

The valley is coming alive again after the winter! 

The vines coming alive again

The beginning of grapes growing again

We organized a trip this time with Karen and JC and decide to document the weekend for the great food and wine experience. 

Karen and JC in our humble abode

We left SD close to 1pm on Friday and came down by Tecate to avoid traffic. So we got to the valley by 3pm and was able to do some wine tasting at Pijoan first, followed by Monte Xanic. 

Pijoan with their tapas 

We went for dinner at Tres Gallines and still can't find the Italian chef as he's in Cabo for winter! 

Good meal at Tres Galline but still not as good as the old chef

The next AM we started the day with lamb tacos. And realized they have table service now! 

Lamb tacos

Finally managed to go back to trevista after almost 3 years to try their wine. Still like it but the new harvest needs time to age. Got a couple of bottles 

Cool tasting at Trevista

We went to Malagon for tasting after Trevista. 

Decent wine but not enough to do purchase for this year wine

I was excited to bring them to Ojos Azul for dinner as I like their food. 

Good dinner at Ojos Azul